Tuesday, 17 October 2017

"Nucky" / Vintage / "Apaches"

The importance of "The Vintage showroom" for the collectors of Vintage is well known http://www.thevintageshowroom.com/blog/
But what about the private collectors ? 
Watch Out for "Nucky"
Tweedland revisits also the lost and forgotten world of the Paris "Apaches" 
JEEVES / Tweedland














 Apaches est un terme générique qui sert à désigner des bandes criminelles du Paris de la Belle Époque. Ce terme, qui fait florès vers 1900, résulte d'une construction médiatique basée sur un fait divers. En 1902, deux journalistes parisiens, Arthur Dupin et Victor Morris, nomment ainsi les petits truands et voyous de la rue de Lappe et « marlous » de Belleville, qui se différencient de la pègre et des malfrats par leur volonté de s'afficher.
Les Apaches se déplacent en bandes, avec des accoutrements spécifiques qui leur permettent de se distinguer. L'élément le plus important de leur habillement réside dans les chaussures. Quelles qu'elles soient, elles se doivent de briller, surtout aux yeux de leur bande ou de leur dulcinée. Un Apache n'hésitera d'ailleurs devant rien pour s'approprier la paire de bottines jaunes plus importante que son veston en lustrine noire (ou le bourgeron bleu) semi-ouvert sur une chemise fripée ou un tricot rayé et une ceinture en flanelle rouge, le pantalon patte d'éph de Bénard1 ou la casquette à pont (casquette à haute passe2) vissée au-dessus d'une nuque rasée et des cheveux lisses et pommadés ramenés en accroche-cœur3. Originaires des quartiers hauts de l'est parisien, comme Ménilmuche ou Belleville, ils investissent à la nuit tombée la Bastoche ou la Mouff'. Pour subvenir à leurs besoins, ils pratiquent, selon leur âge et leur expérience, le bonneteau (arnaque de rue), le proxénétisme ou encore l'escroquerie. Certains sont d'ailleurs particulièrement violents, n'hésitant pas à commettre des homicides.
La présence et le rôle actif des femmes dans les méfaits attribués aux Apaches ainsi que le libéralisme des attitudes qu'elles adoptent et affichent volontairement tranchent avec les mentalités de l'époque. Un exemple particulièrement relaté dans la presse du rôle des femmes dans cet univers fut celui d'Amélie Élie, immortalisée ensuite par Simone Signoret dans le film Casque d'or de Jacques Becker, et qui fut au centre d'une lutte entre deux souteneurs, Leca et Manda, en 1902.
Plus de 30 000 rôdeurs contre 8 000 sergents de ville : L'apache est la plaie de Paris. Nous démontrons plus loin, dans notre « Variété », que, depuis quelques années, les crimes de sang ont augmenté dans d'invraisemblables proportions. On évalue aujourd'hui à au moins 70 000 le nombre de rôdeurs — presque tous des jeunes gens de quinze à vingt ans — qui terrorisent la capitale. Et, en face de cette armée encouragée au mal par la faiblesse des lois répressives et l'indulgence inouïe des tribunaux, que voyons-nous ?... 8 000 agents pour Paris, 800 pour la banlieue et un millier à peine d'inspecteurs en bourgeois pour les services dits de sûreté. Ces effectifs qui, depuis quinze ans n'ont guère été modifiés, sont absolument insuffisants pour une population dont l'ensemble — Paris et banlieue — atteint, le chiffre énorme de 4 millions d'habitants. C'est ce que nous avons voulu démontrer dans la composition si artistique et si vivement suggestive qui fait le sujet de notre première gravure. »
« J'ai vu souvent des gens s'étonner de cette dénomination appliquée aux jeunes rôdeurs parisiens, dénomination dont ceux-ci se glorifient d'ailleurs, et il m'a paru curieux d'en rechercher l'origine. Je vous la donne telle qu'elle me fut contée.
C'est au commissariat de Belleville que, pour la première fois, ce terme fut appliqué à nos jeunes malandrins des faubourgs. Ce soir-là, le secrétaire du commissariat interrogeait une bande de jeunes voyous qui, depuis quelque temps, ensanglantait Belleville par ses rixes et ses déprédations et semait la terreur dans tout le quartier. La police, enfin, dans un magistral coup de filet, avait réussi à prendre toute la bande d'un seul coup, et les malandrins, au nombre d'une douzaine, avaient été amenés au commissariat où le « panier à salade » allait bientôt venir les prendre pour les mener au Dépôt. En attendant, les gredins subissaient un premier interrogatoire. Aux questions du secrétaire, le chef de la bande, une jeune « Terreur » de dix-huit ans, répondait avec un cynisme et une arrogance extraordinaires. Il énumérait complaisamment ses hauts faits et ceux de ses compagnons, expliquait avec une sorte d'orgueil les moyens employés par lui et par ses acolytes pour dévaliser les magasins, surprendre les promeneurs attardés et les alléger de leur bourse ; les ruses de guerre, dont il usait contre une bande rivale avec laquelle lui et les siens étaient en lutte ouverte. Il faisait de ses exploits une description si pittoresque, empreinte d'une satisfaction si sauvage, que le secrétaire du commissariat l'interrompit soudain et s'écria :
Apaches !... le mot plut au malandrin... Apaches ! Il avait lu dans son enfance les récits mouvementés de Mayne Reid, de Gustave Aimard et de Gabriel Ferry... Apaches !... oui l'énergie sombre et farouche des guerriers du Far West était assez comparable à celle que déployaient aux alentours du boulevard extérieur les jeunes scélérats qui composaient sa bande... Va, pour Apaches! Quand les gredins sortiront de prison — ce qui ne dut pas tarder, vu l'indulgence habituelle des tribunaux — la bande se reconstitua sous les ordres du même chef, et ce fut la bande des « Apaches de Belleville ». Et puis le terme fit fortune. Nous eûmes bientôt des tribus d'apaches dans tous les quartiers de Paris : tant et si bien que le mot prit son sens définitif et qu'on ne désigna plus, autrement les rôdeurs de la grande ville. Aujourd'hui l'expression est consacrée ; la presse l'emploie journellement, car les apaches ne laissent pas passer un jour sans faire parler d'eux... Il ne manque plus que de la voir accueillie par le dictionnaire de l'Académie... »
La paternité de l'expression est attribuée aux rédacteurs en chef des principaux journaux de l'époque qui relataient les faits de ces voyous (Le Matin et Le Petit Journal).
Une mise en avant croissante de grands procès apportent leur lot de fascination pour une frange de la population. Mais il faut sans doute aussi évoquer le rôle des grands journaux parisiens qui n'hésitent pas à mettre à la une les « exploits » de ces bandes et à entretenir ce sentiment d'insécurité, qui alimente le phénomène.
La population des faubourgs, initialement effrayée par ces bandes, de même que les patrons des troquets, les bougnats, des Auvergnats qui ne tardent pas à être assimilés aux yeux du peuple à ces malfrats, finissent par les lâcher sous la pression des journaux et les efforts de la police. En 1920, on commence à abandonner le terme d'Apaches, sans doute aussi à la suite des nombreuses pertes engendrées par la Première Guerre mondiale sur cette classe d'âge de la population. Le terme est cependant utilisé avec la montée du sentiment anti-américain en 1923 pour critiquer la conduite des Américains en France, notamment les bagarres et les expulsions de clients noirs imputées au « préjugé de race » américain. On affirme ainsi que Montmartre ne sera pas la colonie des Apaches



Saturday, 7 October 2017

BEST OF BRITANNIA LONDON - 12 / 13 OCTOBER 2017




BEST OF BRITANNIA LONDON -
12 / 13 OCTOBER 2017

BEST OF BRITANNIA IS PROUD TO BE AT THE FOREFRONT OF DISCOVERING THE FINEST EMERGING & HISTORIC BRITISH BRANDS.
BOB LONDON 2017 ADDRESS

The Boiler House
152 Brick Lane,
London
E1 6RU
Best of Britannia is an uplifting and inspirational retail and events platform for the growing number of people looking to purchase high quality products, made right here in Britain by people who take great pride in making things beautifully.

BOB is at the vanguard of a UK-wide phenomenon, as the manufacturing skills that were the foundation of Britain’s past prosperity undergo an extraordinary renaissance. From the Scottish Highlands to the South Downs, from Norwich to Penzance, we are witnessing the re-birth of the well-made object – the high-quality artefact, produced here by people who have honed their skills over generations. Craftsmen and women, artisans, designers and manufacturers have been curated and united here at BOB – we want to sell to the world the products from the men and women who have devoted themselves to their creation.

With the Creative Industries bringing a staggering collective £87 billion into the UK economy and employing 1 in every 11 people it is time that we started shouting about it from the rooftops, showing how proud we are of how brilliant we collectively are. It is time too, that both British retailer and consumer recognises the sheer quality of what is produced here and chooses to prioritise British-made goods over produce made elsewhere for which the provenance is less assured and for which the environmental impact of it reaching these shores is well-documented. The BOB team came together in 2012 and since then, we have devoted ourselves to building a collective of brands and their makers via, first an event platform and now an accompanying online retail platform.

We hope you come to BOB London to discover, order, purchase and enjoy the products available and the stories behind them which you can then relay on to your friends and families and thereby pass the baton on. Best of Britannia – 100% Futureproof.

Visit Best of Britannia if:

You want to discover new British brands, see how they are made and meet the people who make them
You want to find unique British-made product from over 150 brands including menswear, womenswear, childrenswear, footwear, accessories, jewellery, cycling, motoring, home furnishings and much, much more
You want to taste some of the best food and drink available in the UK from fine wines and cocktails to craft beers, from artisan chocolate to cheeses to chilli oils
You want to have your hair cut or beard sculpted by the best barbers in London
You want to be pampered in our wellbeing area
You want to shop till you drop







INTERVIEW WITH PATRICK GRANT

NOVEMBER 10, 2016 12.23

We had a chat with Fashion Designer, Judge on The Great British Sewing Bee and BOB Ambassador Patrick Grant to get his thoughts on BOB. How it resonates with his brand values, on why buying British is buying quality and the Launch of Community Clothing.

 How do you feel about working with BOB? What got you involved in the first place and what inspires you about Best of Britannia?
BOB is an organisation who we really resonate with. It’s important to our economy that we keep these great clothing and textile makers as busy and as buoyant as we can, because not only is it part of our heritage, it should be part of our future.

A lot of people will look to you for not only your advice or expertise but also to say ‘Let’s get behind this’.  Is that something that you feel is really important with working with Best of Britannia, but also with the various makers that you will work with?

BOB plays a very crucial role in not only promoting the idea of ‘Made in the UK’, but also actually making it possible by sharing knowledge, sharing contacts.

It’s about confidence too – we’ve got extraordinary makers in this country. I think they suffer from a lack of self-confidence and if we’re using their services we need to have great confidence in them. I think all the efforts of BOB and others are around giving people the confidence to bring manufacturing back into the UK.

Obviously the recent significant shift in the value of the pound makes it even more economically sensible to be looking to manufacture at home where you can. Who knows what will happen to the value of sterling over the next five years.

You’ve got a great story not only with Norton & Sons and E. Tautz but then with Community Clothing. How’s it going and what’s your next ambition for Community Clothing?

We officially launch our web-store and open our store in Blackburn for Community Clothing September 7. As a brand you can shop us from September 7, whereas before we ran a kick-starter campaign for almost a month where you could pre-order some pieces. But then we had to go away and manufacture those and deliver those. Now we will be available to buy just like any other British-made brand.

But the idea with Community Clothing is to try and fundamentally change the economics. Sometimes people have perceptions of ‘Made in Britain’ as somehow a bit crafty and maybe a bit “home-made” and I think that is a perception that is changing now as people see how many leading designer brands are making in great factories in the UK and how much effort is going into designing great products that’s made here.

The essential story is that it’s affordable to all: simple clothes that are affordable to all. I think for quite a long time there has been this feeling that British-made clothes have to be expensive and for good reason some of them are. Community Clothing uses simple, staple fabrics – everything is made in cotton or khaki cotton. This is not high-fashion, this is simple, stylish everyday clothes. But we wanted to see if there was a way we could have British-made clothes that were at high-street prices and priced at a level that meant that anybody can afford them, not just wealthy people.

It’s the third Buy British Day on October 1st. Why is it so important to “Buy British” and how often do you personally buy British?

For me buying British is synonymous with buying quality. It’s important to buy a good quality product. We don’t do a lot of cheap product here. We mostly do good quality, expensive product in the UK. And just as a general principle I like to buy things that are well-made that will serve their purpose not just for five minutes but for many, many years. We should buy less rubbish and buy fewer but better things – just as a general principal.

But also it is important – if we want our towns and communities across the UK to be vibrant in an increasingly post-industrial UK – that we keep what manufacturing we have actually going. What we have to do is rebuild what we have there because the service can only do a certain amount for us as a country in terms of jobs, but it can only extend so far. For many people jobs in manufacturing were what they would have done when they finished school, so for generations and families – father and son, father and grandfather, great grandfather would follow each other’s footsteps in the same industry. Town’s identities were built on these principles.

Wednesday, 4 October 2017

The Gentleman's Handbook: The Essential Guide to Being a Man by Alfred Tong (Author), Jack Hughes (Illustrator)




"There's never been a tougher time to be a gentleman. In addition to the general vulgarity of the modern world, he has to contend with all manner of things: the challenges of social media, the practicalities of being metrosexual and still taken seriously at work, and juggling his finances in these cash strapped times.

Or does he? Who is this man who is seen slipping with ease between the office and the smartest parties, dressed in the most elegant clothes, oozing charisma and cool? Why, he is a man of style and taste. Let Alfred show you the way, with advice and tips on topics ranging from grooming and fashion, to getting ahead at work, romancing in the digital world and entertaining with style and panache.

Following the success of his first book, The Gentleman's Guide to Cocktails, Alfred presents a funny and clever guide for today's world, inspired by the finest gentlemen of all time.

Draft Table of Contents
Chapter 1 - Gentlemen of Note
Chapter 2 - Breakfast, The Third Wardrobe, Shaving and Skincare, Beards, Hair, Fragrance
Chapter 3 - Finding Your Own Style, Underwear, Casual Shirt, Casual Trousers, Knitwear, How a Suit Should Fit, Advice From a Savile Row Tailor, Ties, Socks, Shoes
Chapter 4 - The Journey Into Work, How to Write Well, Digital Communication, How to Get Good Handwriting, Body Language, How to Network, How to Pitch, The Art of Conversation, Office Politics
Chapter 5 - How to go out all night, How to order a cocktail, How to make cocktails, The Bluffer's Guide to Wine, Schmoozing, How to Party, The Office Party, How to Throw a Party, Dancing

Chapter 6 - The Ten Biggest Mistakes Men Make, Approaching Women, Online Dating, The Date, How to Get the Shag Pad Ready, The Joy of Sexting"

Monday, 2 October 2017

SKULLS AND KEYS The Hidden History of Yale’s Secret Societies By David Alan Richards



A look inside Yale’s secret societies — and why they may no longer matter

Padlocks secure the front doors of the Skull and Bones society’s meeting hall, known as the “Tomb,” on Yale’s campus in New Haven, Conn. (DAVID ROBERTS FOR THE WASHINGTON POST)

By Helen Andrews September 28
Helen Andrews is a 2017 Robert Novak Journalism Fellow and has worked as an editor and a think tank researcher.

The younger brother of the poet Archibald MacLeish wrote a letter to his fiancee in 1917 complaining about how depressed and humiliated he felt at having been passed over by all of Yale’s secret societies. He had not even been tapped by Skull and Bones, where, through Archie, he was a legacy. “It almost kills me,” he wrote. “I want to get to France and forget the whole thing.”

It was a fateful choice of words. Kenneth MacLeish left school to join the Naval Reserve Flying Corps, deployed to France as a pilot and was shot down over Belgium on Oct. 14, 1918, less than a month before World War I ended. He was 24.

What is it about Yale’s secret societies that makes otherwise sensible people so awestruck? Why did young men like Kenneth MacLeish feel it was a matter of life and death whether they were admitted to the clubs? Strictly speaking, the Yale senior societies are not fundamentally different from the exclusive social clubs found at every other Ivy League school. But no one ever based a horror movie franchise around the Princeton dining clubs.


If it is the secrecy of these groups that you find appealing, “Skulls and Keys” is the wrong book for you. David Alan Richards admits at the beginning that “there will be no ‘secrets’ here that have not already, somehow and somewhere, been revealed at least once in print.” Richards is a Bonesman himself, so he could divulge hidden secrets if he wanted to, but apparently he decided that his book didn’t need to be spiced up with juicy insider details.

[How Harvard, Princeton and Yale discovered women]

Alas, without the juicy details, “Skulls and Keys” amounts to little more than a succession of anecdotes, some more interesting than others. Conservative readers will be gratified to learn that William F. Buckley Jr. refused to join the Fence Club if it continued to blackball his friend Thomas Guinzberg for being Jewish. But even the original Bonesmen of the 1830s would probably agree that their dirty jokes (“How did Demosthenes have such numerous progeny when he carried his stones in his mouth?”) did not need to be entered into the historical record.

The bagginess of this 800-plus-page tome is made worse by the fact that Richards is not a natural storyteller. (He is a lawyer by profession.) The fight that led to women finally being let into Skull and Bones in 1991 makes a gripping saga: keys to the tomb confiscated, lawsuits threatened, top-secret memos leaked and printed in the Wall Street Journal. Richards fumbles what should be the climax of his book. He waits until nearly the end of the book to mention that one of the undergraduate ringleaders in favor of admitting women was future Obama economic adviser Austan Goolsbee.

Richards’s microscopic view of his subject obscures the larger fact that Yale’s secret societies have long been in decline. They no longer have the cultural cachet they enjoyed in the days of John O’Hara and Dink Stover. Undergraduates walk past the brownstone tomb on High Street with no more interest than they walk past Yorkside Pizza. Membership is still sought after by the ambitious for networking purposes, but the secret societies have lost their glamor.

Their decline coincided with the increasingly meritocratic policies of the 1960s. That much is clear. Less clear is what precisely about that seismic cultural shift proved fatal. Mere egalitarianism was never the problem, since left-wing political commitments rarely stopped anyone from accepting admission to a society, even when outsiders accused them of hypocrisy. In 1971 a student columnist noted with indignation that the students inducted that year included “one black militant, a leading spokesman of last spring’s Mayday activities, [and] one of the organizers of the charity drive for New Haven.” How, he asked, can some of the “most outspoken defenders of the community last spring now be a member of a society that does nothing for the community?”

Old-timers would say things started going downhill when the clubs let women in. Resistance to going coed persisted surprisingly late. The first two times Skull and Bones considered admitting women, in 1971 and 1986, alumni committees voted against it unanimously. To give the fuddy-duddies their due, most secret societies throughout history, since the days of the first Freemasons, have been all male. Perhaps women are less easily impressed by silly costumes and creepy chanting.

Bart Giamatti, who served as president of Yale from 1978 to 1986, believed that the declining prestige of secret societies was an unavoidable consequence of diversity. “What a freshman in 1914 had heard of societies from his preparatory school masters and a freshman in 1944 might hear from one of his numerous classmates whose relatives had attended Yale, a freshman in 1974, more likely than not from a public high school, with no previous Yale ties, would not hear at all,” he wrote in 1978 in a history of his own secret society, Scroll and Key. “That ingrained consciousness of societies, that shared sense of what they meant . . . disappeared like smoke in the late sixties.”

[Five myths about college admissions]

Even after those public-school upstarts learned what secret societies were, they still were unfamiliar with conventions that were second nature to legacies: whether you were allowed to lobby societies in advance (no), how seriously to take the code of secrecy (very), even something as simple as the procedure for Tap Night, the traditional evening of robes and rituals when all the societies induct their new members. Seniors had to spell everything out to the juniors in advance, which rather diminished the mystique.

Harvard recently announced that it was considering barring students from joining fraternities, sororities and exclusive single-gender groups known as “final clubs.” Members of such clubs are already subject to penalties, including ineligibility for certain grants and fellowships. In July, the Committee on Unrecognized Single-Gender Social Organizations officially recommended a total ban.

Yale partisans may be tempted to take delight in the fact that their school has not taken such a humorless stand against a venerable form of undergraduate socializing. But the sad truth may be that, after a long slide into irrelevance, Yale secret societies are not important enough to be worth banning.

SKULLS AND KEYS
The Hidden History of Yale’s Secret Societies
By David Alan Richards


Pegasus. 821 pp



Skull and Bones was founded in 1832 after a dispute among Yale debating societies Linonia, Brothers in Unity, and the Calliopean Society over that season's Phi Beta Kappa awards. William Huntington Russell and Alphonso Taft co-founded "the Order of the Scull and Bones".

The society's assets are managed by the society's alumni organization, the Russell Trust Association, incorporated in 1856 and named after the Bones co-founder. The association was founded by Russell and Daniel Coit Gilman, a Skull and Bones member.

The first extended description of Skull and Bones, published in 1871 by Lyman Bagg in his book Four Years at Yale, noted that "the mystery now attending its existence forms the one great enigma which college gossip never tires of discussing." Brooks Mather Kelley attributed the interest in Yale senior societies to the fact that underclassmen members of then freshman, sophomore, and junior class societies returned to campus the following years and could share information about society rituals, while graduating seniors were, with their knowledge of such, at least a step removed from campus life.

Skull and Bones selects new members among students every spring as part of Yale University's "Tap Day", and has done so since 1879. Since the society's inclusion of women in the early 1990s, Skull and Bones selects fifteen men and women of the junior class to join the society. Skull and Bones "taps" those that it views as campus leaders and other notable figures for its membership.

The tomb before the addition of a second wing
The building was built in three phases: the first wing was built in 1856, the second wing in 1903, and Davis-designed Neo-Gothic towers were added to the rear garden in 1912. The front and side facades are of Portland brownstone in an Egypto-Doric style. The 1912 tower additions created a small enclosed courtyard in the rear of the building, designed by Evarts Tracy and Edgerton Swartwout of Tracy and Swartwout, New York. Evarts Tracy was a 1890 Bonesman, and his paternal grandmother, Martha Sherman Evarts, and maternal grandmother, Mary Evarts, were the sisters of William Maxwell Evarts, an 1837 Bonesman.

The architect was possibly Alexander Jackson Davis or Henry Austin. Architectural historian Patrick Pinnell includes an in-depth discussion of the dispute over the identity of the original architect in his 1999 Yale campus history. Pinnell speculates that the re-use of the Davis towers in 1911 suggests Davis's role in the original building and, conversely, Austin was responsible for the architecturally similar brownstone Egyptian Revival Grove Street Cemetery gates, built in 1845. Pinnell also discusses the "Tomb's" aesthetic place in relation to its neighbors, including the Yale University Art Gallery. In the late 1990s, New Hampshire landscape architects Saucier and Flynn designed the wrought iron fence that surrounds a portion of the complex.

The society owns and manages Deer Island, an island retreat on the St. Lawrence River. Alexandra Robbins, author of a book on Yale secret societies, wrote:

The forty-acre retreat is intended to give Bonesmen an opportunity to "get together and rekindle old friendships." A century ago the island sported tennis courts and its softball fields were surrounded by rhubarb plants and gooseberry bushes. Catboats waited on the lake. Stewards catered elegant meals. But although each new Skull and Bones member still visits Deer Island, the place leaves something to be desired. "Now it is just a bunch of burned-out stone buildings," a patriarch sighs. "It's basically ruins." Another Bonesman says that to call the island "rustic" would be to glorify it. "It's a dump, but it's beautiful."

Skull and Bones's membership developed a reputation in association with the "Power Elite".Regarding the qualifications for membership, Lanny Davis wrote in the 1968 Yale yearbook:

If the society had a good year, this is what the "ideal" group will consist of: a football captain; a Chairman of the Yale Daily News; a conspicuous radical; a Whiffenpoof; a swimming captain; a notorious drunk with a 94 average; a film-maker; a political columnist; a religious group leader; a Chairman of the Lit; a foreigner; a ladies' man with two motorcycles; an ex-service man; a negro, if there are enough to go around; a guy nobody else in the group had heard of, ever ...
— Lanny Davis, quoted by Alexandra Robbins

Like other Yale senior societies, Skull and Bones membership was almost exclusively limited to white Protestant males for much of its history. While Yale itself had exclusionary policies directed at particular ethnic and religious groups, the senior societies were even more exclusionary. While some Catholics were able to join such groups, Jews were more often not. Some of these excluded groups eventually entered Skull and Bones by means of sports, through the society's practice of tapping standout athletes. Star football players tapped for Skull and Bones included the first Jewish player (Al Hessberg, class of 1938) and African-American player (Levi Jackson, class of 1950, who turned down the invitation for the Berzelius Society).

Yale became coeducational in 1969, yet Skull and Bones remained fully male until 1992. The Bones class of 1971's attempt to tap women for membership was opposed by Bones alumni, who dubbed them the "bad club" and quashed their attempt. "The issue", as it came to be called by Bonesmen, was debated for decades. The class of 1991 tapped seven female members for membership in the next year's class, causing conflict with the alumni association. The Trust changed the locks on the Tomb and the Bonesmen instead met in the Manuscript Society building. A mail-in vote by members decided 368-320 to permit women in the society, but a group of alumni led by William F. Buckley obtained a temporary restraining order to block the move, arguing that a formal change in bylaws was needed. Other alumni, such as John Kerry and R. Inslee Clark, Jr., spoke out in favor of admitting women. The dispute was highlighted on an editorial page of The New York Times. A second alumni vote, in October 1991, agreed to accept the Class of 1992, and the lawsuit was dropped.

Judith Ann Schiff, Chief Research Archivist at the Yale University Library, has written: "The names of its members weren't kept secret‍—‌that was an innovation of the 1970s‍—‌but its meetings and practices were." While resourceful researchers could assemble member data from these original sources, in 1985, an anonymous source leaked rosters to Antony C. Sutton. This membership information was kept privately for over 15 years, as Sutton feared that the photocopied pages could somehow identify the member who leaked it. He wrote a book on the group, America's Secret Establishment: An Introduction to the Order of Skull and Bones. The information was finally reformatted as an appendix in the book Fleshing out Skull and Bones, a compilation edited by Kris Millegan and published in 2003.

Among prominent alumni are former President and Chief Justice William Howard Taft (a founder's son); former Presidents and father and son George H. W. Bush and George W. Bush; Supreme Court Justices Morrison R. Waite and Potter Stewart; James Jesus Angleton, "mother of the Central Intelligence Agency"; Henry Stimson, U.S. Secretary of War (1940-1945); U.S. Secretary of Defense (1951-1953) Robert A. Lovett, William B. Washburn, Governor of Massachusetts; and Henry Luce, founder and publisher of Time, Life, Fortune, and Sports Illustrated magazines.

John Kerry, former U.S. Secretary of State and former U.S. Senator; Stephen A. Schwarzman, founder of Blackstone Group; Austan Goolsbee, Chairman of Barack Obama's Council of Economic Advisers; Harold Stanley, co-founder of Morgan Stanley; and Frederick W. Smith, founder of FedEx, are all reported to be members.

In the 2004 U.S. Presidential election, both the Democratic and Republican nominees were alumni. George W. Bush wrote in his autobiography, "[In my] senior year I joined Skull and Bones, a secret society; so secret, I can't say anything more." When asked what it meant that he and Bush were both Bonesmen, former Presidential candidate John Kerry said, "Not much, because it's a secret."

A document in Yale's archives suggests that 322 is a reference to the year 322 BC and that members measure dates from this year instead of from the common era. In 322 BC, the Lamian War ended with the death of Demosthenes and Athenians were made to dissolve their government and establish a plutocratic system in its stead, whereby only those possessing 2,000 drachmas or more could remain citizens. Documents in the Tomb have purportedly been found dated to "Anno-Demostheni". Members measure time of day according to a clock 5 minutes out of sync with normal time, the latter is called "barbarian time".

One legend is that the numbers in the society's emblem ("322") represent "founded in '32, 2nd corps", referring to a first Corps in an unknown German university.

Members are assigned nicknames (e.g., "Long Devil", the tallest member, and "Boaz", a varsity football captain, or "Sherrife" prince of future). Many of the chosen names are drawn from literature (e.g., "Hamlet", "Uncle Remus"), religion, and myth. The banker Lewis Lapham passed on his nickname, "Sancho Panza", to the political adviser Tex McCrary. Averell Harriman was "Thor", Henry Luce was "Baal", McGeorge Bundy was "Odin", and George H. W. Bush was "Magog".

Skull and Bones has a reputation for stealing keepsakes from other Yale societies or from campus buildings; society members reportedly call the practice "crooking" and strive to outdo each other's "crooks".

The society has been accused of possessing the stolen skulls of Martin Van Buren, Geronimo, and Pancho Villa.

The group Skull and Bones is featured in conspiracy theories, which claim that the society plays a role in a global conspiracy for world control. Theorists such as Alexandra Robbins suggest that Skull and Bones is a branch of the Illuminati, having been founded by German university alumni following the order's suppression in their native land by Karl Theodor, Elector of Bavaria with the support of Frederick the Great of Prussia, or that Skull and Bones itself controls the Central Intelligence Agency.



Friday, 29 September 2017

Remembering: The Treasure Houses of Britain: 500 Years of Private Patronage and Art Collecting November 3, 1985 – April 13, 1986 / The National Gallery of Art


 The Treasure Houses of Britain: 500 Years of Private Patronage and Art Collecting
November 3, 1985 – April 13, 1986

East Building, Upper Level and Mezzanine (35,000 sq. ft.)
This exhibition is no longer on view at the National Gallery.

Overview: 700 art objects from more than 200 country houses in England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland illustrated 500 years of British collecting from the 15th century to the present. 17 period rooms were constructed to display the objects. This was the largest and most complicated exhibition undertaken to date by the National Gallery. Gervase Jackson-Stops, architectural advisor to the National Trust of Great Britain, chose paintings by Peter Paul Rubens, Diego Velázquez, Anthony van Dyck, Canaletto, and John Singer Sargent; sculpture by Praxiteles, Canova, and Henry Moore; furniture by Kent and Chippendale; Meissen, Sèvres, Chelsea, and Oriental porcelain; and drawings, tapestries, jewelry, armor, silver, and other decorative arts.

Organization: Jackson-Stops structured and selected the exhibition with Gaillard Ravenel and Mark Leithauser. Ravenel, Leithauser, and Jackson-Stops designed the exhibition to reflect each period of collecting, and Gordon Anson designed the lighting.

Sponsor: The exhibition, organized in conjunction with the British Council after 6 years of preparation, was made possible by a grant from Ford Motor Company, special funding from the 98th Congress, indemnities from Her Majesty's Treasury and the United States Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities, and by British Airways.

Attendance: 990,474

Catalog: The Treasure Houses of Britain: Five Hundred Years of Private Patronage and Art Collecting, edited by Gervase Jackson-Stops. Washington, DC: National Gallery of Art; New Haven: Yale University Press, 1985.

Brochure: The Treasure Houses of Britain: Five Hundred Years of Private Patronage and Art Collecting, by Gervase Jackson-Stops, edited by William J. Williams. Washington, DC: National Gallery of Art, 1985.




A GALA FOR 'TREASURE HOUSES OF BRITAIN'
By BARBARA GAMAREKIAN, Special to the New York Times
Published: October 31, 1985

Members of the British aristocracy are here by the score to celebrate the largest exhibition ever held by the National Gallery of Art: ''The Treasure Houses of Britain.''

An extravagant start for almost two weeks of festivities surrounding the show, which opens to the public Sunday, took place tonight in the new Georgian-style ballroom of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel. Given by the hotel's owner, John B. Coleman and his wife, Virginia, the black-tie dinner dance honored the owners of ''The Magnificent Seven,'' the most-visited stately homes in England.

The owners and their houses are the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough of Blenheim Palace; Lord Montagu of Beaulieu; the Marquess and Marchioness of Tavistock of Woburn Abbey; Simon and Annette Howard of Castle Howard; Lord and Lady Romsey of Broadlands; the Earl and Countess of Harewood of Harewood House, and Michael and Vibeke Herbert. Mr. Herbert is the chief executive of Madame Tussaud's Ltd., owner of Warwick Castle.

The occasion, said Mr. Coleman, was ''a thank you'' to the lenders for their support of the National Gallery exhibition. For the gala, Mrs. Coleman wore a strapless scarlet Scaasi ball gown, and she, Mr. Coleman and Lord Montagu received the guests, announced by one of England's renowned toastmasters, Ivor Spencer. The menu for dinner was all-American: pumpkin soup, roast loin of veal stuffed with oyster dressing and cranberry and apple brown betty.

Among the guests were an assortment of American ambassadors, Cabinet officers and members of Congress as well as Susan and David Brinkley, Carolyn and Michael K. Deaver, Buffy and William Cafritz, Kathleen and Henry Ford 2d, and Jo Anne and Donald E. Petersen. Mr. Petersen is chairman of the Ford Motor Company, corporate sponsor of the ''Treasure Houses'' show.

Other guests included Evangeline Bruce in black velvet; her houseguest, the Duchess of Devonshire, in gray-green watered silk, and Bonnie Swearingen in an emerald Ungaro dress, worn with an emerald choker and earrings.

''It's an incredible schedule,'' the Duchess said. ''They have us running and busing.''

The idea of maintaining and insuring the future of privately owned country houses by opening them to the public - ''the stately home business,'' as the Marquess of Tavistock phrased it - was originated by the 13th Duke of Bedford in 1955. ''It was my father who took up the idea of opening up these homes to paying visitors,'' Lord Tavistock said.

The appellation ''The Magnificent Seven'' was ''thought up'' by the seven families ''as a marketing device,'' said the Duke of Marlborough, whose ancestral home, Blenheim Palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill, was visited by 380,000 people last year.

''We pool our ideas and our resources and use a joint leaflet,'' the Duke said. ''Every cent goes back into the business. It is a real challenge these days to keep these large homes going for the future. We consider ourselves to be custodians of the national heritage.''

But much of the talk was of the exhibition itself, which had been visited earlier in the day by a number of the lenders.

''I had expected a marvelous show, but it's beyond anything that I had anticipated,'' said Simon Howard, whose Castle Howard in Yorkshire starred in the televised dramatization of ''Brideshead Revisited.''

Lord Montagu, who called the exhibition ''a dream come true,'' said: ''I've been talking with Carter about this for more than seven years.'' He was referring to J. Carter Brown, director of the National Gallery.

Jerome Zipkin said, ''You need about a half-dozen trips to see it all.'' Mr. Zipkin, who was returning to New York on Thursday morning, added, ''I'm coming back for the big number,'' referring to the White House dinner on Nov. 9 for the Prince and Princess of Wales, patrons of the exhibition.

Lord Tavistock, who has lent several dozen objects to the show, including Antonio Canova's marble ''The Three Graces,'' said: ''It is an amazing experience to go around and see things that belong to you in the middle of a collection of works of art that is second to none in the world. We British have been magpies for centuries, and we are still at it - my wife and I just bought a painting in Tennessee, so we brought over 33 objects for the show, and we are going home with 34.''

Mr. Brown had suggested to a number of the British guests that tiaras might be appropriate for the American festivities. But Lady Tavistock arrived in Washington tiara-less.

''It is all because of my crazy idea,'' said her husband. ''I thought a case of tiaras would look unusual in the exhibition and suggested it to Carter, and he said, 'What a great idea -can I borrow a couple of yours?' So Henrietta's tiaras are locked up in a case at the National Gallery.''

No matter, said the Marchioness: ''Traveling with a tiara is such a performance. Your hair has to be woven into them, and I wouldn't think you would be able to find a hairdresser here who knows how.''